Learn from the locals: Making mole negro in Mexico's culinary capital

Mexican cuisine is one of the most complex, traditional, and ritual-laden food systems in the world. In 2010, it became the first cuisine to receive UNESCO Intangible Heritage Status for its culinary achievements. And while food across Mexico varies by region, Oaxaca is particularly renowned for its food traditions. So as the food-lovers that we are, we knew we had to cook with locals while in Oaxaca.

There are several cooking classes available, and after reading reviews, looking over menus, and comparing costs, we settled on Cooking Classes Oaxaca and couldn't have been happier.

The class is nearly a full-day experience and begins with a trip through the two biggest markets in Oaxaca City: Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre. While we'd made multiple visits to both markets on our own, Esperanza showed us some of her favorite places to buy quesillo (Oaxacan cheese), chapulines (fried grasshoppers), and chilis, helping inform our future purchases for the remainder of our time in Oaxaca.

After the market we took a short taxi ride to Esperanza's place. The kitchen is open with plenty of space for a group of up to seven people. What we really loved about this cooking class as compared to the reviews of some others was that everyone got hands-on experience preparing every dish. Esperanza clearly demonstrated and explained each process and was patient with us as we made our notes on the recipe handouts provided. While we could have opted to take the class in English, we chose to do it in Spanish as Jared is learning. The open bar of mezcal and beer only made the language exchange more fluid.

Esperanza is an experienced cook and instructor who brings generational recipes to the kitchen. Originally from Ocotlán (a town outside of Oaxaca City), she learned to cook from her mother and grandmothers using local, native ingredients to make ancient dishes like tamales and mole. Class participants choose which menu they'd like to prepare. We chose the mole negro recipe, as moles are some of the most complex sauces to prepare and Rebecca already knew how to make mole rojo.

Throughout the day we made two salsas picantes, guacamole, three different types of tortillas to make memelitas, quesadillas, and blanditas, followed by the grand finale: mole negro. It was the best mole we had while in Oaxaca, and we consumed a serious amount of mole over our nearly two-month stay.

If you love Mexican food (and who doesn't?) and find yourself in Oaxaca, you will not be disappointed cooking, eating, and drinking all day in this class. It was one of our favorite things we've done so far in Mexico, and Rebecca can't wait to impress her Mexican family at Christmas time with some mole negro.